
I booked in to hike the Three Capes Track with Tasmanian Walking Company. Here's how it went down.
“Dolerites? Isn’t that a mountain range in Italy?”
This was my reaction when reading about the cliffs I was soon to see on my first-ever guided hike.
As a Brisbane-born hiking enthusiast who relocated to Tasmania for work, I was chomping at the bit to hit the trails but didn’t know where to start.
I'm usually a minimal-planning hiker with a ‘what could possibly go wrong’ attitude, but to uphold my promise to a (not so) quietly concerned Mother, I booked into the Three Capes Signature Walk with Tasmanian Walking Company at the helm, rather than my naive mind.
Thank goodness I did, because I wouldn’t have been nearly as prepared, comfy or leave as knowledgeable of Tasmania's stunning wilderness if I hadn't. Here’s how it went down.
Day One.
My sister (who joined me on the hike) and I woke up with nervous excitement that only grew while driving to the drop-off point. We tiptoed into a room full of unfamiliar faces that, little did we know, would turn into close friends in the coming four days.
From the moment we arrived, our guides Gus and Anna were on a mission to give us the best hiking experience possible and share their authentic love of the Tasmanian wilderness. Thanks to expert tips from these two, we were packed quickly and on our way.
Following a scenic bus ride, we pulled into Stewarts Bay for the next leg of our journey on a boat. We putted through Port Arthur and came face to face with Jurassic age cliffs, all while learning the stories of those who preceded us in exploring and residing in Port Arthur.
After a rather exciting dismount into chilly ankle-deep water, we sought out the sun on Denman’s Cove, enjoyed a fresh sandwich and tasty treat, then hit the trails. The Three Capes Track begins with coastal shrubbery flanking you on both sides and the colours of the leaves looked especially vibrant in the afternoon light. The diversity of landscapes you encounter on the trail is incredible, and our guides educated us on how each landscape served a purpose to the Palawa People.
A Y-shaped tree hollow marked the secret offshoot from the main track that led us to Crescent Lodge, where my jaw dropped for the Nth time that day. Standing in this thoughtfully designed eco-lodge with unobstructed views of Crescent Bay and Cape Raoul had my brain pondering the question ‘what did I do to deserve something this nice!?’
Our evening at Crescent Lodge was spent wining and dining on delicious fare courtesy of our lodge host, Molly, and getting to know the other individuals on our trip. Conversation flowed like fine wine (especially after a glass of such) and our evening ended with a trip to the observation deck with my newfound friends to point out twinkling constellations before bed.
Grinning ear to ear with Port Arthur behind us.
Day Two.
Rise and shine, it’s hiking time. But not before a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs, coffee, and much-needed carbs (cereal and toast). We'd been briefed the night before on how our day would start with a climb up Arthur's Peak, and as a cross-country runner and a sucker for pain, I couldn't wait to earn the panoramic views promised at the top. I was not disappointed. While the climb was steep at times, the well-laid track made it very manageable. I arrived at the top to vistas of towering cliffs and an expansive ocean, which I soon found out was best enjoyed with a mocha and bikkies courtesy of our guides.
Our walking group consisted of 10 individuals with a range of fitness levels. My sister had some insecurities around being fit enough to keep pace, but we found this was never a concern because it's not about pace - it's about moving through the journey at a speed that suits you. Each hill on the trail ended with a rest stop, coffee and snacks, which meant faster hikers would have ample time to stop, grab a coffee and stay well and truly occupied marvelling at the view. This also meant slower walkers felt no guilt in taking their time to conquer a climb as there was no pressure on them; faster climbers were more than content with having extra time at the top. And the Merry Poppins-style bags our guides carried never ran out of tea, coffee or biscuits, so no matter your pace, you were rewarded for your efforts.
After a quick descent, our landscape changed to thick, waist-height shrubs that offered 360-degree views of the undulating Tasman National Park. Speckled through this dense greenery were vibrant flowers and splashes of colour, so no matter where you looked, nature offered something to intrigue you.
Lunch was held at viewing platforms offering pole position vistas of the mighty Pacific Ocean crashing against dolerite columns (which I now know is a type of ancient rock), then we embarked on our final stretch to Cape Pillar Lodge.
It's hard to pick a single highlight from the lodging experience with Tasmanian Walking Company but to rapid fire a couple - homemade cake on arrival, thoughtful window positioning to give 11/10 sunset views, hot showers, spaces to rest, recover, and roll out weary muscles, and relaxed lounges to sip a wine and play a board game.
After a hearty dinner washed down with Tasmanian drop, we retired for the evening, sleeping soundly knowing we would shed our hiking packs for day bags tomorrow.
A very satisfied group at the end of a day's walk.
Day Three.
There was a distinct spring in everyone's step this morning which could be attributed to the lighter packs, the excitement of the scenes to see that day or a combination of both. I'd seen images of 'The Blade’ - the signature feature on today's walk and I couldn't wait to not only experience it in person, but climb it.
Our journey out to Cape Pillar wound under a thick canopy and came with many surprises, including when one of our guides scaled a tree like a cat to demonstrate how it'd been grown on an angle to act as a surveying platform. Eventually, the gravel track turned into a boardwalk snaking through wind-swept foliage and our first view of the blade presented itself.
After a quick morning tea, we pushed on to the exposed cliffs of the Cape and rounded the corner to a green-topped Tasman Island standing tall amidst the chaos of the navy-blue sea. Fun fact: keepers of the lighthouse on Tasman Island had to forfeit their teeth to take the job as dentures were safer than leaving your post with a nasty toothache (a common problem for lighthouse keepers). You can thank our guides for this fact, and it was one of many imparted along the journey.
Each twist and turn in the trail brought us face to face with vertically cracked dolerite cliffs and a different angle of Tasman Island that never failed to amaze. Finally, we reached the foot of the blade and shed our packs for the daredevil climb to the top. This was a trip highlight - dolerite columns giving way to sheer cliffs on each side, spiking your adrenaline and fuelling the feeling of accomplishment when you reach its peak. From the top, the three capes are all visible, and with dolerite columns lining the coast like a stoic, rocky guard of honour to each.
Lunch was spent processing views and snapping shots of the blade and Tasman Island from a prime vantage point, then we completed the journey out to the edge of Cape Pillar.
The return journey felt bittersweet knowing we'd accomplished so much, but our hiking experience was nearing its close. It’s safe to say our group made the most of our last night together with plenty of laughter shared over wines, a mouth-watering wallaby stew and creme brule.
Stunning views of Tasman Island from the top of The Blade.
Day Four.
Our group ‘endured’ an hour earlier wake-up this morning (6am instead of 7am like the spoiled princesses we were) which was made oh so worth it by the hot shakshukas waiting for us in the dining area. After packing bags and saying a sad farewell to our amazing lodge host, Caine, we kicked off our final day of adventuring. This started with a climb up Mount Fortescue, broken up by three benches signalling which third of the climb you had reached. Despite carrying a bag twice the size of ours, our superhuman guide Gus jetted off ahead with the promise of hot coffee and delicious biscuits at the peak.
Mount Fortescue was a true adventure. Vibrant green moss coated almost all surfaces and a plethora of microorganisms to spy (colourful mushrooms, fungi and more) distracted you from the burn in your quads. We’d been blessed with luxury lodges, incredible food and plenty of pampering over the past few days, so it felt satisfying to still work up a sweat and prove ourselves as capable Three Capes adventurers just as much as professional relaxers.
Atop Mount Fortescue, fuelled by mocha and biscuits, we continued to trek on, but with a different focal point. We’d spent the last three days admiring the beauty in vast views from lookouts, but as we walked through the mossy forest, our guides encouraged us to zoom in on the flourishing moss and fungi playing hide and seek on the forest floor. This served as a touching reminder that there’s beauty everywhere you look - it's up to you to set your focus right as you seek it out.
Before the final section of the trail to lunch, we stopped at ‘The Throne’ on the side of the track (where I was put in my place by my sister as seen below). From this point, our guides encouraged us to walk individually and practice ‘tree-bathing’. This was a mindfulness technique of simply walking in silence and spending uninterrupted time immersed in your environment. After three days of new experiences and striking scenes, this time to think, process, appreciate and stay truly immersed in the present was invaluable - these moments were the catalysts for the feeling of freshness and tranquillity that remained with us post-hike.
After refuelling on a tasty wrap packed with fresh vegetables, we reached a junction in the trail. Those of us who were game to take on some undulating terrain dropped our packs and set off on the side quest that was Cape Hauy. Cape Hauy is known for the number of stairs that sit between you and the lookout, which I couldn’t understand as the views were clearly the most memorable part of that adventure.
I barely remember how my legs felt walking on the stairs, as the images of cliffs, crashing waves and bold greenery had my mind wrapped up in awe. Our group arrived at Cape Hauy Lookout in no time, and we each experienced an adrenaline spike while peering over the railing of the lookout at the 200m sheer drop to the ocean below. The Candlestick and the Totem Pole stood proud below us and we marvelled at how some brave adventurers had managed to scale both. On the walk back, it hit me how little time I had left breathing deep on fresh air and enjoying the views, so this return journey was spent lapping it all up and taking plenty of mental snapshots of the sea cliffs (as well as real ones via my trusty phone).
My sister and I donned our packs for a last downhill cruise where the crystal-clear waters of Fortescue Bay grew ever closer. Excitement with a twinge of sadness crossed our faces as we passed the totem that signalled the end of the Three Capes Track - our great adventure had reached its end. But not before a last cold plunge in the chilly winter waters of Fortescue Bay that surprisingly left us feeling more fresh than frigid.
I can confidently say that the Three Capes Signature Walk is one of my all-time favourite adventures. What sets it apart from other hikes I’ve done is having peace of mind knowing all the planning, accommodation and travel logistics were all taken care of - which most hikers will know are a PAIN IN THE ASS to organise and often detract from the overall experience.
My job was to turn up, take to the trails, eat chef-made meals, drink wine and be present in my surroundings. No complaints there.
From the walker base to the boat experience to the lodges and, most importantly, the incredible guides, Tasmanian Walking Company sweated the small stuff in ensuring our group was best set up to refresh, connect with each other and grow closer to our natural surroundings. And for that, I can't thank them enough.
Not everyone earns the right to sit on the throne...
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Last updated 26 June 2025.