Beyond the Trail: The Unexpected Moments of Larapinta

It's 6:45am, and the sun is rising over Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges. In one direction, the spine of the range is bathed in hot orange light as the day begins in earnest; in the other, a full moon sits low in the sky amongst pale blue, purple and pink. Our group of 15 (plus three energetic guides) have been awake for three hours already, trooping up the first 3km of Rwetyepme (Mount Sonder) in a slinking caterpillar formation, the bobbing light of our headtorches the only thing distinguishing us from the dark before dawn.

The walk isn't easy, but the rocky paths twist upward in a way we've come to know well after four days on various sections of the Larapinta Trail. Our usually boisterous group is quiet, without our usual sudden stops to admire the desert flora in bloom, point out mica sparkling in a rock face, or twist back to take in a valley sprawling beneath us. Without the respite of botany and geology breaks, I focus on the morning calls of birds, busy waking up a landscape I can't yet see.

When the climb smooths into a plateau, my legs are burning and the jet boil is already going; Jez unzipping the group's favourite sight, the coffee and tea bag. Our funny little trip family spreads out across the rocky clearing, dropping packs and scrambling for puffers as the morning breeze hits. I squat happily in direct sun, letting the warmth of my tea melt chilly fingers.

"I love this one," I say to our resident engineer and botanist, Sarah, pointing to a bush dotted with purple flowers.

"We've seen a lot of that one this trip… Ara—" she prompts.

My still-waking brain scrambles through a rolodex of the dozens of plant names — in English and Arrernte — I've picked up over the trip, trying to find some purchase.

Eventually: "—morphelis!" tumbles out of my mouth. Sarah cheers, we high-five, and my chest fills with that particular warm pleasure of getting a question right in Maths class. There's something about walking this landscape every day that makes you giddy over plant species and rock formations you'd otherwise walk straight past.
    
Image: Our sunrise spot on Day 5, complete with a setting full moon

A different kind of landscape

Central Australia can feel like walking on another planet, at least to me, a Queenslander raised in the subtropical greenhouse of the South-East. Hiking at home means being closed in, trekking through narrow channels beneath rainforest canopy. Here, the world stretches to the horizon, further than you could walk in days. The ranges crawl along the earth like caterpillars, as they have for Arrernte people for over 60,000 years. The entire world is either rust red, cobalt blue or dusty green, and the earth shifts under you if you're too eager with foot placement.

For all its openness, there's more to see right at your boots than you'd think. The trail turns over like the pages of a botanical encyclopedia, hardy natives sprouting from the rockiest, most unlikely places.

It's a pleasure to walk with guides like Ivy and Alina, who've spent much of the current season out on this trail, only a trip or two away from a well-earned break by the time we meet them. They're knowledgeable, skilled, endlessly prepared, but it's the passion that jumps out at us. Ivy is from Aotearoa/New Zealand originally, Alina from Tassie, but you'd never guess it from the way they talk about this place. Both love Central Australia the way you'd love a homeland, quick to point out a favourite stretch of track, favourite plant or bird and are both full of stories about how this ancient, winding landscape has survived and kept thriving.

   
Image: Ivy running us through the incredible geological history of the ranges

Camp Life

Each afternoon we tumble off the bus and into the arms of Anna (pronounced like the princess in Frozen), our camp host, who's spent the day prepping meals and baking something new for afternoon tea. A routine sets in fast: returning lunch boxes (forks out, before scraps go to the compost), refilling water bottles at the electrolyte station (we wipe out the Powerade Mountain Blast in record time), and queuing for camp's most valuable resource… the outdoor shower. Set beside a gum tree, the only thing between you and the sky in the little corrugated-iron pod is a showerhead delivering four blissful minutes of hot water. The two indoor showers have just as warm water, but somehow are never quite as exciting.

After unwinding in the shower, we melt onto the outdoor lounge, huge umbrellas catching the last of the afternoon sun. Some close their eyes and prop up weary feet for a nap; others crack open Bananagrams for a passionate round; still others smooth a map of the Northern Territory across the table and tell stories of past adventures with Indigenous communities across the territory.

Like clockwork at 5pm, wine, beer, ginger beer and kombucha appear on the table outside the kitchen, and we mosey over to pour each other a well-earned drink. Alec — 75, retired, author, and keeper of the map — runs us through the nightly toast. So far we've raised a glass to our guides, our camp host, the land, the sky, good friends new and old, and tonight, to unexpected delights.

Image: The famous outdoor shower! 

The trail itself

Over six days you cover just shy of 70km of the Larapinta Trail, a generous cross-section of the full 230km. You'll greet the Finke River, one of the oldest waterways in the world; make your way through Ormiston Gorge (one gentle water crossing required); climb ridgelines in Serpentine Gorge and Ellery Creek; and reach the summit of Rwetyepme. Every day brought its own view, track edges dense with flowers in every colour imaginable, rock faces holding millions of years of visible history, and more snacks than anyone could reasonably get through.

Image: My favourite rock formation to spot, the ridges are imprints of a longggg gone ocean floor!

Trip Highlights

• Meeting the group not outside a hotel, but sitting in the riverbed of the Todd River, introducing ourselves to each other and to Country.
• A tour of Alice Springs Desert Park with Kumali, an Arrernte woman who introduced us to the first of many native plants and their uses as bush medicine and tucker. She also made sure we were up to date with the winnings of the local footy team.
• A different flavour of Whittaker's chocolate block passed around at lunch, every day.
• On the final night: a charcuterie board, G&Ts and champagne, followed by a steak dinner.
• Linen sheets, doonas and quilts, entirely banishing the desert's overnight chill.
• Sitting trackside before lunch each day while the guides whipped up tea and coffee for everyone.
• Coming back from our biggest day on the track to bespoke foot spas, courtesy of Amanda of Irritja Pty Ltd — a chance to see some bush medicines in action, and rest weary feet.
• Not one, not two, not three, but four separate swims in natural waterholes along the trail. The water was always cold, but always the right reset for tired legs.
• Did I mention the outdoor shower?

 
Image: Our deliciously comfortable sleeping setup for all 5 nights 

Trip Surprises

Nothing prepares you for the friendships that form on a hiking holiday. Shared challenge break down barriers fast, and the group became close within days, a few contested rounds of UNO later, we were indistinguishable from family. It was a treat swapping stories with people from all over Australia, connected by nothing more than a love of a good walk, a good yarn and a good drink.

The biodiversity surprised us too. Picture regional NT and you probably picture red dirt and not much else. Put some respect on the rocks first, and second, know there's an endless run of plant life to take in. The two botanists on the trip set themselves a scavenger hunt for all ten subspecies of one particular plant; the track delivered eight.

Image: The NT State Flower, Sturt’s Desert Rose

Trip Tips

• Train beforehand. You'll cross just about every kind of rocky surface there is — small gravel, fist-sized rocks, full boulders. Balance is the key skill, and your ankles and knees will thank you for the warning.
• Respect the NT sun. This should go without saying for an Australian trail, but even coming from the Sunshine State, this sun is something else. Pack light long layers for top and bottom, heavy-duty sunscreen, and a 3L water system you'll actually use.
• Stop and look. With technical walking underfoot, it's easy to keep your head down for long stretches. Take the time to pause and take everything in, the landscape doesn't get old, not for a second.
• Enjoy the challenge. Overcoming the hard parts is one of the most rewarding pieces of a multi-day hike. Weariness is part of the deal — so when you're back at camp with a hot shower, good food and a cold drink in hand, take the moment to acknowledge the work. The endorphins are rea

Image: Our Larapinta Crew!  

Explore the iconic Larapinta Signature Walk

Last updated: 06 October 2026.